Hide n Seek
There's so much to learn when it comes to concealers, and years into my career, I'm still learning techniques about this very important step. Concealer has the ability to hide, brighten and highlight. It can create mind-blowing illusions, which is a key fundamental in makeup artistry.
Understanding the skin and the many factors to be considered, are imperative for successful concealing. Let's say for example: if you're trying to disguise a blemish vs. a bruise vs. under-eye darkness, each one of those scenarios will be approached completely differently. As a makeup artist, it's been exciting to learn what works for each imperfection and how to best camouflage the challenge sitting in front of me. Color theory is put into play. Skin tone and skin texture indicate how the skin will benefit from that product. The one thing I know for sure is that we all want to look our best, and concealer is a powerful weapon to have in our arsenal of beauty products.
For the pimples and spots that can grace our face and make us feel self-conscience, I would recommend a full coverage concealer with a yellow undertone (yellow helps to counteract reddish tones, aka pimples and spots). Apply very sparingly using a tiny brush, then lightly pat into the skin or affected area until undetected (spot concealing), Set with a powder to ensure longevity. You can also find concealers that are infused with healing skincare ingredients for problematic skin. As with anything, you'll want to research what's best for your skin type and expect some trial and error.
Under-eye demise! I think most of us have heard someone say, "Are you feeling OK? You look tired. Long night, huh?" Our delicate skin shows so much... aging, dehydration, discoloration, puffiness. Some of us have even inherited the family under-eye dark circles, thanks mom and dad! First and foremost, I would encourage the use of an eye cream, the earlier in life the better. If you suffer from puffiness, look for eye cream that contains cucumber and/or caffeine. Concealer choices should be on the hydrating or moisturizing side with a light/medium coverage that can be build-able or layered upon. If you have dark circles to disguise, I would go for a concealer that has a peachy tone to brighten the slight grayish/blue tone found under the eyes. If you happen to be blessed with little discoloration, then find a shade that is closest to your skin tone or one shade lighter. Think of brightening the under-eye. I always recommend setting liquid/creamy products with an ultra fine powder, something that will not add texture but keep the concealer locked into place.
I could write so much more on this topic but I have to draw the line somewhere! If you have questions and feel inclined to reach out and ask me, please feel free! Below is a list of products I have used on my clients as well as myself, and I'm always looking to try new formulations. If there's a product you'd like to share with me and what works for you, I'd love to hear!
http://www.dermalogica.com/concealing-spot-treatment/52,default,pd.html?cgid=targeted_treatments&start=4&cgid=targeted_treatments
http://www.maybelline.com/Products/Face-Makeup/Concealer/Face-Studio-Master-Conceal.aspx
http://www.maybelline.com/Products/Face-Makeup/Concealer/fit-me-concealer.aspx
https://www.maccosmetics.com/product/13844/23771/Products/Makeup/Face/Concealer/MAC-Studio-Conceal-and-Correct-Palette-Light
https://www.maccosmetics.com/product/13844/964/Products/Makeup/Face/Concealer/Select-Moisturecover#/shade/NW20
http://kevynaucoin.com/the-sensual-skin-enhancer
http://kevynaucoin.com/the-concealer-brush
http://www.makeupforever.com/us/en-us/make-up/face/powder/hd-microfinish-powder?sku=5449